While most Italian cities celebrate Carnival (Carnevale in Italian) in some form or fashion my hometown of Ivrea has one of the more famous celebrations following closely behind Venice and Viareggio.  Rather than the costume balls of Venice the Storico Carnevale di Ivrea is more of a historical reenactment of several periods in the city’s history.  Unfortunately, the part most known to the world is the infamous Battaglia di Arance (the orange battles), which are usually shown as 10-second sound bites on news programs around the world.  As any native of Ivrea will attest, Carnevale in Ivrea is a special time when the townspeople recreate a pageant which celebrates the independence of the city from oppressive rulers; Count Raineri di Biandrate in 1194, the Marchese del Monferrato in 1266, and Napoleons troops in the early 1800’s.

While most Italian cities celebrate Carnival (Carnevale in Italian) in some form or fashion my hometown of Ivrea has one of the more famous celebrations following closely behind Venice and Viareggio.  Rather than the costume balls of Venice the Storico Carnevale di Ivrea is more of a historical reenactment of several periods in the city’s history.  Unfortunately, the part most known to the world is the infamous Battaglia di Arance (the orange battles), which are usually shown as 10-second sound bites on news programs around the world.  As any native of Ivrea will attest, Carnevale in Ivrea is a special time when the townspeople recreate a pageant which celebrates the independence of the city from oppressive rulers; Count Raineri di Biandrate in 1194, the Marchese del Monferrato in 1266, and Napoleons troops in the early 1800’s.

The pageant plays out over several months beginning in January with the announcement of the Generale, one of the two major characters, and the presentation of the Abba.

The abba are children, two from each of the five parishes of Ivrea, who represent the abbots or lay priors who had taken part in the individual parish carnival celebrations prior to 1808.  Likewise, the character of the Generale goes back to the first combined carnevale in 1808, which took place when Ivrea was under the rule of Napolean.

While there are various historical events which occur in the weeks leading to Lent, the activities intensify on the Thursday before Ash Wednesday when the mayor turns over control of the city to the Generale and his staff known as the Stato Maggiore who are dressed as cavalrymen of Napoleon’s army.   

There is also the appearance of the Sostituto Gran Cancelliere a position added in 1808 which is responsible for recording the activities of each years Carnevale in a special book as has been done for almost 200 years.  His assistants, and Bill’s favorite characters, are the Vivandiere, four young ladies who accompany the Gran Cancelliere.  This entourage led by the Pifferi e Tamburi (fife and drum corps) march through town and to the Duomo to pay their respects to the Vescovo (Bishop) of Ivrea.  Nothing of importance happens on Friday as everyone is preparing for the Saturday night announcement of the person who will play the Mugnaia or millers daughter, the heroine of Carnevale.  Every little girl in Ivrea grows up with the dream of someday being the Mugnaia and the position is not taken lightly.  The name of the Mugnaia is a closely guarded secret until 9 p.m. on Saturday night when the townspeople crowd into the main square of Ivrea to hear the announcement.  This years Mugnaia is Irene Quaglia Ferraris.  To be continued.  (Click on any image above to see expanded view.)