We have now come to the last two days of Carnevale.  Monday morning is devoted to preparing the “Scarli” which are ten foot poles wrapped in heather, juniper and wild herbs gathered in the nearby hills.   In each of the five borgo a Scarlo will be erected for use on Shrove Tuesday.  This ceremony is performed by the Generale, his staff, and for each borgo, the most recently married couple who signify the rights of the family in the face of arbitrary interference.  The afternoon is dedicated to Battaglia di Arance.

Shrove Tuesday the town is busy with activity and full of tourists.  The early afternoon is devoted to the last major parade which includes bands and various marching groups from the area and also groups from other countries and of course the Mugnaia in her gilded carriage throwing candy and mimosa flowers to the crowd.  After the parade there is the final Battaglia di Arance and then everyone prepares for the evening activites.  They begin at dusk as everyone heads to Piazza Castello for the burning of the first Scarlo.  The scarlo is lit by the Abba from this borgo and within minutes the sky is alight and the crowd looks on as the flame races to the top.  The Scarlo is a symbol of freedom to the Ivreans and it is said if the Scarlo burns quickly it is a sign of a prosperous year.  This event is repeated in the next two borgo.  The next to last and primary Scarlo is in Piazza di Citta which is once again filled to capacity.  This is the only Scarlo burning attended by the Mugnaia and represents her last official act.  It is also the last time we see the Generale on horseback.   As the Scarlo is lit the Generale is standing at attention in his stirrups on his horse, and the Mugnaia standing in her carriage holds her sword high in the air while the Scarlo burns.  The final Scarlo is in the San Grato borgo after which the most somber part of the festival takes place.  Known as the Marcia Funebre (Funeral March) it is led by the sound of a single piper and a single drummer and proceeds thru the old part of town back to Piazza Ottinetti.   The only sound heard for the entire march is the piper, the drummer and most eerie of all the sound of the Generale and his staff dragging their swords on the pavement.  What always amazes me is that all of the townspeople are walking in this procession yet it’s so quiet that even if you are blocks back you still hear the sound of the swords.

Finally we arrive at Piazza Ottinetti and the Carnevale is officially over.  The last act is the goodbyes which is also part of the tradition in that you don’t tell your friends goodnight but rather “arvedse a giobia a’n bot” which is dialect for “goodbye till Thursday at one” a reference to next year’s Carnevale.
Unless you’re from Ivrea it’s hard to understand the attachment to Carnevale but believe me it is something that is part of your being.  From the donning of their red berretto, to the orange battles, to the eating of polenta merluzzo on Ash Wednesday.  It’s a way of keeping the history and traditions alive and passing them on to the next generation.  So on Ash Wednesday even if we are not in Ivrea I make merluzzo (cod fish) and we remember the excitement of Carnevale.  (Click on any image in this post to see an expanded view.)
                
Viva la Mugnaia!!!